taytrum travels

Buenos Aires, Argentina’s busy capital, offers a bit of everything: culture, history, and great cuisine. Spending three weeks in Buenos Aires allowed me to see a great deal of the city and nail down the best things to see and eat within each major neighborhood.

Are you wondering what things there are to do in Palermo? This guide will help you navigate Buenos Aires’ large neighborhood. Here I’ve laid out a great one-day itinerary for Palermo. From breakfast to dinner, museums to parks, and shopping to nightlife, this guide has got you covered. Plus, it features some of the best things to eat in Palermo.

Palermo

To start, Palermo is one of the largest neighborhoods in the city. It is also the best neighborhood in Buenos Aires in my opinion.

It can be further divided into Palermo Viejo, Palermo Soho, and Palermo Hollywood. It is a lively area with plenty of great restaurants, places to explore, gardens, grocery stores, and more. Palermo Viejo is charming and home to the MALBA Museum. You can also see the Buenos Aires dog-walkers in this neighborhood, often walking a dozen dogs at a time.

Buenos Aires Palermo Soho is the more hipster and trendy neighborhood. Here you’ll find lots of unique shops and street art. Palermo Viejo, as the name suggests, is a bit older, but a bit more classic and luxurious with tall condos. Palermo Hollywood is where you’ll find cool nightlife.

Palermo Buenos Aires things to do include museums like MALBA and Museo Evita and parks such as the Japanese Gardens and Ecoparque. There are many things to do in Palermo, plus it is a great neighborhood for wandering and exploring pretty and artsy streets.

Related: Best Things to do in the Recoleta Neighborhood

Breakfast in Palermo

Ninina

Ninina has several locations around Buenos Aires, to include inside MALBA. They are a well-known bakery and coffee shop. This is a good spot to try artisan alfajores. While I was there, I couldn’t resist a giant slice of carrot cake alongside a cortado. If you want a little less sugar for breakfast, they also have small plates like sandwiches, omelets, yogurt bowls, and salads. With a location attached to MALBA, this an easy first stop for a quick breakfast to fuel up for the rest of the exploring in Palermo.

1. Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)

Wondering where to get started in Palermo or what to do? Or in other words: que hacer en Palermo Buenos Aires? Starting at MALBA is a great choice.

Highlighting artwork from across Latin America, MALBA is best known for Frida Kahlo’s Self Portrait with Monkey and Parrot and Diego Rivera’s Retrato de Ramón Gómez de la Serna. The museum opened in 2001 and has been a top destination in the city ever since. While Mexico’s incredibly famous Kahlo and Rivera draw lots of crowds, there are Argentine painters showcased here as well like Xul Solar and Antonio Berni.

The main hall at the entrance is airy, with a tall ceiling and escalators and elevators leading up to the collections. Most of the work in the museum is contemporary and modern.

The museum has a small fee of $2,000 Argentine Peso for general admission or $1,000 for students. As of 2023, this was roughly equivalent to $3-6.00 USD, however the exchange rate changes quickly. If you are budget traveler, don’t let the admission fee stop you though. I really think MALBA is one of the best things to do in Palermo.

2. Museo Evita

Next up, you’ll explore the nearby Museo Evita. Eva Perón is the iconic first lady, philanthropist, actress, and wife of President Juan Domingo Perón. Housed in what was once the headquarters of her social foundation, this museum is dedicated to the life of Eva.

You can learn more about her life and Argentina’s 20th century history by visiting this museum. It also showcases memorabilia and many of her best dresses. An excellent restaurant is attached around the back where you can try milanesa and flan con crema y dulce de leche, some Eva’s favorites.

Lunch in Palermo

Evita

Museo Evita is not only a museum dedicated to the first lady and Argentina icon Eva Peron, but it also has an excellent restaurant tucked behind it. Hear me out: this is not your typical museum restaurant. There is both indoor seating and a covered patio. 

Among other things, their menu contains some of Eva’s favorite dishes such as milanesa. Their lunch special in particular is a great deal. It includes bread, an entrée, a side, a glass of wine, and dessert. They have great options for vegetarians as well. I had a creamy ravioli with pumpkin filling.

The back patio features checkerboard floor tiles and space heaters under a covered tent in the winter. It is also a garden with potted plants and trees all around. They have folded blankets on each chair during the winter. Because of this, it is a great spot to dine out and get some fresh air, even if it’s chilly.

It is both a classy and cozy restaurant that you’d never guess was part of a museum. I loved the flan here so much, I went back twice. You can have it served with both dulce de lech and crema (pictured below).

3. Buenos Aires Ecoparque

Just a short walk from Museo Evita is the Ecopark (Ecoparque). If you want to see the unique South American Mara wandering around cage free, do not miss the Ecoparque. Once a zoo, activists helped push the city into reforming the zoo into a refuge. Animals were rehomed to zoos with more capacity or rehabilitated into the wild when possible.

Today the park has many large birds and critters like maras that wander around cage free. This is a perfect place to bring kids, but it’s also delightful for adults too. Buenos Aires Ecopark is one of the best free activities in the city. Plus, the Buenos Aires Ecoparque is on the way to your next stop: the Japanese Gardens.

4. Jardín Japonés

Sightseeing in Palermo often includes a stop at the Japanese Gardens. The Jardín Japonés in Buenos Aires is an oasis nestled within the bustling city. First opened in 1967, this Japanese garden showcases traditional Japanese landscaping techniques, featuring lush greenery, tranquil ponds with koi fish, and meticulously manicured bonsai trees. Visitors can explore winding pathways and cross charming bridges.

The garden also offers cultural exhibitions and self-guided origami teaching stations. Inside you can also find a Japanese restaurant with sushi. There is a small entrance fee to the park and lines can get quite long at peak hours later in the day.

You may wonder why you’d visit a Japanese Garden when traveling to Argentina, but it’s worth noting that the site celebrates a rich history of immigration. In the 20th century, Argentina received tens of thousands of Japanese immigrants.

Related: 15 Free Things to Do in Buenos Aires

Cafe Stop to Relax

Cuervo Cafe

Found in Palermo Soho, this coffee shop offers quick service. You can order from a window outside or inside. Cuervo, meaning crow, features a hip, cozy design inside with just a few seats. They have more seats outside, however the chairs are more of stools. Because of this, this cafe makes for a better quick stop before further exploring. If you skipped alfajores for breakfast, you can find them here.

4. Shopping in Palermo Soho

Palermo Soho is known for their unique boutique shops. You can find all sorts of art and clothing for sale. Street markets are also common during the day. They typically sell leather goods like belts and bags. Other stalls sell jewelry. One of my favorite spontaneous stops was at a shop called Gorion. Here they sell crafted leather and non-leather products like bags and wallets. They are a local Buenos Aires company, and the prices were better than I expected for a boutique.

Street art in Palermo Soho is also very common. You’ll see lots of murals dedicated to football players like Messi. Take this shopping time to wander around the streets in Palermo Soho. You’ll see lots of cool art and stores. There are also tons of interesting bars if you want a snack or drink break.

Dinner in Palermo

Niño Gordo

Niño Gordo is a popular restaurant in Buenos Aires known for its fusion of Asian and Latin American cuisines. A popular dish is the Baos con Panceta. Served with gochujang mayo, these are like little pork sandwiches. The fried chicken appetizer is also incredible, named Kara-age on the menu. The best vegetarian option is the curry.

They’re also notable for their creative and unique cocktails, often served in quirky cups and glasses. Inside, the decor is exquisitely curated with lots of red lanterns, fish tanks, a sushi bar, and retro diner style chairs and tables. Perhaps most distinct is the giant inflatable baby that hangs over the entrance of the restaurant. Reservations are strongly recommended.

El Peron Peron

If you want meat that falls off the bone, head to Peron Peron in Palermo Soho. They serve large portions and amazing food while maintaining the ambiance of an everyday, casual vibe with a flair for politics and sports. If you come here, you must absolutely try their ossobucco (Peroncho Hasta Los Huesos on the menu), a cut of veal on the bone braised for 6 hours and served with creamy potatoes.

Despite the high quality and size of the portions, most people will be very pleased to know this restaurant is very affordable for travelers. In June 2023, four plates, four drinks, a salad, an appetizer, and dessert came to a total of $68 USD ($17 per person). I was blown away by both the quality and quantity of the food at this price point.

Related: Top 24 Restaurants in Buenos Aires

If you are looking for dinner on the other side of the neighborhood in Palermo Viejo, don’t miss Mishiguene! It is a bit on the pricey side and more upscale, but it was one of the most unique, flavorful, and memorable meals of the months I spent in Argentina.

Cocktails and Nightlife in Palermo

In the evening, you should head to Palermo Hollywood for nightlife. One of the coolest, most unique bars in Buenos Aires is Uptown. This bar has transformed to look like a New York City subway station and train. They also serve dinner before turning into more of a cool club later into the night. Buenos Aires nightlife doesn’t kick off until after midnight. Be mindful though that Uptown is super popular. You’ll probably encounter a line to get in on Friday and Saturday nights.

Cool bars in Palermo Soho include Frank’s and Cochinchina. Frank’s is a speakeasy tucked behind the facade of an unimposing, plain door on the street with minimal signage. Second, you pass through a fake store front selling old school tech and videogames. Then, you enter a faux movie theater box office, motorcycle garage, and a sex shop store front. Finally, the last door to pass through is a telephone booth. Inside you’ll find movie inspired cocktails and a jazz lounge. On the weekends, they host live music. This is a super chill and unique bar in Buenos Aires. Frank’s was my favorite spot during my visit.

Cochinchina is a more straightforward, but stylish bar. They have unique cocktails with things like cilantro infusions, coconut, and lavender. On the weekends, they get quite crowded too. Nonetheless, I think it is worth visiting for their cool drinks and China inspired decor.

Should you stay in Palermo?

Palermo is one of the best neighborhoods for hotels and Airbnbs. I stayed in an Airbnb in Palermo Soho for a portion of my visit and thought it was a great location, especially for quick and easy access to TONS of amazing food options (I can’t rave about dining and food in Buenos Aires enough). An Airbnb in Palermo Buenos Aires is definitely a good choice. Exploring Palermo could definitely take you days, so staying in the neighborhood helps make it even easier.

A well-located Palermo budget option is the Malevo Muraña Hostel at around $15 a night depending on the season.

With nearly a perfect location rating and costing less than $200 a night, Mine Hotel in Palermo Soho is a great mid-range hotel choice.

How to Get Around in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires has a good public transportation system, to include a decent metro line. Taxis and Ubers are also popular choices. The city is pretty large, so you’ll likely need to use a car or public transit at some point.

Otherwise, walking is also a good option depending on the weather and time of year. Walking from place to place in Buenos Aires is safe and one of the best ways to explore. Use the same precautions you would in any large city (for example: use a crossbody bag or keep your wallet in your front pocket). Palermo is an especially safe neighborhood for tourists, but still use common sense.

Most of the time I used Uber to get around. Uber is cheaper than most taxi rides. There are also many Uber drivers, so the wait time is minimal.

Is Palermo worth visiting?

Definitely! If you are visiting Buenos Aires, especially as a first-time visitor, Palermo is a great neighborhood to spend time. Buenos Aires nightlife is especially good in Palermo too. So, whether you visit the neighborhood by day or night, there is plenty to see, do, and eat.

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